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How to choose an enameled Dutch oven: Is Le Creuset worth it? Le Creuset vs Staub: is Staub worth it? Why does Le Creuset cost so much? What are my alternatives?

Top: All-Clad Stainless. Bottom: Lodge Logic Cast Iron 12-inch (SK10) skillet. The left images are after 4 minutes of medium heat on an 1800-watt induction cooktop; the right images after 5 minutes. (Ignore the reflections, which make the sidewalls of the All-Clad look hotter than they really are.) The All-Clad's aluminum layer is only about half the thickness of the ~5 mm thick cast iron, yet the All-Clad is beating the cast iron in even heating AND speed. Cast iron won't win many even heating contests on the stovetop unless first pre-heated in an oven. Ovens heat from all directions equally, so ALL cookware is even heating in an oven.
Top: All-Clad Stainless. Bottom: Lodge Logic Cast Iron 12-inch (SK10) skillet. The left images are after 4 minutes of medium heat on an 1800-watt induction cooktop; the right images after 5 minutes. (Ignore the reflections, which make the sidewalls of the All-Clad look hotter than they really are.) The All-Clad’s aluminum layer is only about half the thickness of the ~5 mm thick cast iron, yet the All-Clad is beating the cast iron in even heating AND speed. For instance the center vs. edge temperature difference after 4 minutes is 157.5F for the All-Clad and 211.2F for the Lodge.

Le Creuset (pronounced by French as “luh cruh-zay” and Americans as “leh crew-ZAY”; just don’t call it “leh kressit”) is a French company dating back to 1925, when Armand Desaegher, a caster, and Octave Aubecq, an enameler, joined forces and coated cast iron with porcelain enamel. It was a success and the rest is history.

Le Creuset’s claim to fame is their enameled cast iron cookware, especially their Dutch ovens–or French ovens, as they like to call them. So for purposes of this article, I am talking about just enameled cast iron cookware–mostly Dutch ovens, but some topics are applicable to enameled cast iron skillets as well.

“Le Creuset” means “the cauldron” in French, and Le Creuset insists on calling its most famous products “French” ovens. Yet many people call them Dutch ovens, because the Dutch were famous for making high-quality, thick-walled, cast-metal pots in the 1600s, so the term “Dutch oven” stuck regardless of who actually made the pot. It will probably continue to stick despite Le Creuset’s best efforts. But a “Dutch oven” by any other name would cook just as sweetly.

Q: What’s a Dutch oven (also known as a French oven or cocotte, pronounced “ko-KOT”)?

A: A Dutch oven is any thick-walled cooking vessel with a lid. There is no requirement that a Dutch oven be made of cast iron. Dutch ovens can be made from aluminum, copper, and multi-layered materials (e.g., stainless steel bonded with aluminum and/or copper). Ideally, the sidewalls of the Dutch oven should be heat-conductive and the lid should be tight-fitting and heavy enough that you don’t get too much evaporation during cooking.

Q: Why does Le Creuset cost so much?

A: The short answer is that it’s a) made in France using higher-cost labor than you can find in China; b) Le Creuset likely has higher marketing costs that many rivals; c) Le Creuset likely has higher quality control and sourcing standards and enamel quality than many rivals; d) Le Creuset honors its warranties, unlike some companies that pretend that product defects are the result of user abuse; and most importantly e) product prices are determined by what people are willing to pay, not how much it costs to produce a product. Cast iron is a relatively inexpensive material, and despite reasons a) through d) above, I suspect Le Creuset makes very healthy profit on its French ovens anyway.

That said, here’s a word of caution: only buy from companies that manufacture their own products and from well-established cookware product lines if you can help it. Many companies–even big-name companies–merely import product from Chinese factories for resale, and often don’t spend enough resources to verify quality after the first batch. It takes money and expertise to continuously ensure that products lie flat, do not contain harmful or radioactive chemical contaminants, are polished properly, and so on. If a company doesn’t operate its own factories in China, it could end up like Lumber Liquidators, which sold floorboards with excessive formaldehyde that leaked into the air of the homes it was installed in, which increased consumer cancer risks among other things. Lumber Liquidators told its Chinese partner that it wanted in-spec product, but received out-of-spec product anyway, and nobody caught the discrepancy until end-users started getting unexplained symptoms like headaches and nausea. There are many more examples of Chinese and Indian exports containing toxic or radioactive chemicals, and even more examples of Chinese cookware falling apart, such as handles breaking off while in use, frying pans exploding or popping rivets off, enamel coatings cracking and flying off, ceramic roasters shattering, lids breaking, etc. In contrast, chemical contamination and structural failure are almost unheard of with cookware made in the USA/EU, such as All-Clad and Le Creuset.

Q: Is Le Creuset worth it? That is, is worth the price?

[Read more…]

What is the difference between 3-ply (tri-ply) and 5-ply and 7-ply? How many plies do I need??

You occasionally see breathless marketing material about how their fancy cookware has heat-conductive walls that have more than three plies.

Q: What’s a ply?

A: A ply is just another name for “layer.”

Q: How thick does a layer have to be, in order to be counted as a “ply”?

A: It depends on whose marketing department is answering…

[Read more…]

Are store brands as good as name brand foods? (Or even better?)

Q: Are store brands as good as name brand foods? (Or even better?)

A: The answer is basically yes.

There are three different ways to look at store brands:

  • Commodities. These foods will be very similar or the same no matter who makes them. Examples are butter, milk, orange juice, fruits, vegetables and similar items.
  • Foods where you don’t have a strong preference. If you would not mind brand switching between name brands, throw the store brands into your rotation. Whether you are buying corn chips, cereal, frozen foods, jam, bread, frosting or anything else out there on the store shelves, go for it. The taste of food will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer whether it’s a store brand or a name brand.
  • Foods that you love the taste of and won’t compromise on. These, you should buy from your favorite manufacturer whether it is a name brand or store brand. But if you notice that a brand suddenly tastes different, it’s because manufacturers sometimes quietly reformulate their products to make them more competitive (though inevitably some people don’t like the new taste), so there is no guarantee that store brand or name brand products will stay exactly the same over time. In fact, even people who regularly buy a specific name brand may eventually like the store brand better. [1]

There are a few exceptions where a manufacturer has a patent on a specific process or product, so you can’t get the item anywhere else (e.g., Dreyer patented slow-churn ice cream or probiotics in tea and coffee). Otherwise, even though the recipes are different, there is not much difference between name brand and store brand food.

What isn’t on my list? Safety or quality. The USDA and FDA have rules about food manufacturing and safety where everyone has to meet the same basic criteria. And regardless of whether a product is a store brand or name brand, all food products are subject to the same labeling requirements when it comes to claiming health/nutrition benefits:

  • Health Claims: All health claims involve a component and a disease and may be a qualified health claim, NLEA authorized claims, or claims based on authoritative statements (government research). If you try to imply a claim by putting a heart on the package or saying a food is healthy that counts too.[2][3]
    • Qualified health claims: These claims tend to be very wordy and are very specific. For example, here is the claim for nuts and heart health: “Scientific evidence suggests but does not prove that eating 1.5 ounces per day of most nuts [such as name of specific nut] as part of a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol may reduce the risk of heart disease. [See nutrition information for fat content.]” [4]
    • Authorized Claims: These are more common since there are more approved claims and a list is available on the FDA site, but they are still very wordy. [5]
    • NLEA claim: These let you make a claim about a food component and a disease. For example, consuming calcium is necessary for healthy bones. [3]
    • Structure/Function Claims: This is the easiest type of health claim. If a food component is known to have an effect on the human body you can put a structure / function claim on the package. These claims can be as simple as “fiber maintains bowel regularity,” or “antioxidants maintain cell integrity.” [3]
  • Nutrient Content Claims: Rather than going through the work of proving a health claim, it’s easier to put a nutrient content claim on the package like “low ___.” These claims are limited to the required or voluntary nutrients on the nutrition facts panel and include all of the “free,” “low,” and “good source of” claims you see on packages. [6]
  • Other Claims: There are a number of other claims you may see, such as:
    • Organic: This is strictly regulated by the USDA. [7]
    • Gluten Free: The food must contain 20 ppm or less of gluten [8]
    • Natural: This is not strictly defined in the US. As long as the “natural” food does not contain synthetic ingredients and isn’t colored, it meets the FDA’s definition:

“From a food science perspective, it is difficult to define a food product that is ‘natural’ because the food has probably been processed and is no longer the product of the earth. That said, FDA has not developed a definition for use of the term natural or its derivatives. However, the agency has not objected to the use of the term if the food does not contain added color, artificial flavors, or synthetic substances.” [9]

In conclusion: Because all food is regulated and meets basic safety criteria you are left buying based on the taste, price, and marketing. Often the best value will be the store brands and they are just as good as the name brands. Some stores have multiple tiers of store brands: a low-budget brand, a brand intended to compete with national brands, and a premium brand that may be better than the leading national brand. So the next time you have a choice between a store brand and name brand, you might want to try them both out side-by-side. The results may surprise you!

[Read more…]

In-Depth Product Review: Demeyere Resto 1.5-quart sauce pan with egg poacher insert (aka Gourmet Pan)

Demeyere Resto Egg Poacher and 1.5 saute or sauce pan with lid
Demeyere Resto Egg Poacher and 1.5 saute or sauce pan with lid

THE COMPANY

Demeyere (pronounced Deh-MAI-reh) was a Belgian company founded in 1908 as a family business. 100 years later, the family sold the company to Henckels/Zwilling. Demeyere is an offbeat cookware company. Imagine an uncle who loves cooking. Imagine he wins the lottery and decides to build the ultimate set of cookware for himself, regardless of cost, such that he will never even think of buying any more cookware afterwards. Imagine that he loves the results so much that he shares them with the world. That’s pretty much Demeyere in a nutshell: superb but expensive. That said, my kitchen has quite a lot of Demeyere in it; it has never failed to impress.

THE PRODUCTS BEING REVIEWED

The Demeyere 1.5-quart 4-Cup Egg Cooker/Poacher is a two-in-one sauce pan with 4-egg poacher insert. Use it as a saucepan OR as an egg poacher–heck you can even bake in it (up to 350F). Demeyere also calls this a “Gourmet Pan,” but it’s the same product with a different handle.

By the way, poaching just means cooking by simmering in liquid (water). In practice this setup gives you a cross between poached and steamed eggs, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying the delicious results no matter what you call it.

Key features:

– 1.4 liter (1.48 quart) capacity

– 18 cm top diameter (7.1 inches); 16 mm bottom diameter (6.3 inches)

– 4 mm (0.17 inch) thick aluminum disc base

– Glass lid with steam vent and steel handle

– Welded 18/10 stay-cool stainless steel sauce pan handle

– Rivetless handle design won’t trap food particles

– Stainless steel 18/10 interior surface, magnetic stainless steel bottom surface (for induction compatibility)

– 4 nonstick egg cup inserts with individual handles, plus a stainless steel lifter for quickly lifting all four inserts at the same time

– 2-year warranty

The sauce pan/egg poachers are made in Indonesia and are part of Demeyere’s “Resto” line of affordable specialty cookware that isn’t made in Belgium.

[Read more…]

In-Depth Product Review: Demeyere Proline Skillet a/k/a Atlantis Gold 5-star Frying Pan 28 cm & 32 cm diameter (11 inch & 12.6 inch diameter)

 

Demeyere Proline Skillet 28cm
Demeyere Proline Skillet 28cm

THE COMPANY

Demeyere (pronounced Deh-MAI-reh) is a Belgian company founded in 1908 as a family business. 100 years later, the family sold the company to Zwilling J. A. Henckels (itself owned by the Werhahn Group, a German family investment firm that also owns Staub and other high-end brands).

Demeyere is an offbeat cookware company. Imagine an uncle who loves cooking. Imagine he wins the lottery and decides to build the ultimate set of cookware for himself, regardless of cost, such that he will never even think of buying any more cookware afterwards. Imagine that he loves the results so much that he shares them with the world. That’s pretty much Demeyere in a nutshell: superb–likely the last pan you will ever want to buy.

Here is Demeyere’s video about Demeyere Proline skillets, explaining the skillet’s 3-layer magnetic stainless base and how it’s more responsive to induction than most other pans:

If you’ve never cooked on stainless before, here’s a video showing you how to cook on stainless (though the take-off-the-burner-with-lid trick is only applicable to Demeyere’s extra-thick pans; for other pans that don’t hold as much heat, you will probably have to keep cooking on the burner):

[Read more…]

In-Depth Product Review: Bar Keepers Friend (BKF)

PRODUCT REVIEW: BAR KEEPERS FRIEND

“The answer to life’s problems: F it. BKF it!” –unused advertising jingle

Okay, they’ll never use that line as an advertising jingle, but I do want to shine a spotlight on my favorite way to quickly clean stainless steel and copper cookware: Bar Keepers Friend (all varieties)!

Many people gravitate to cookware that has stainless steel inner linings, but discover that stainless steel discolors easily. The discoloration usually comes from two sources:

  • Rainbow discoloration often stems from overheating the metal or oil residue1
  • Grungy/white discoloration often stems from food residue or sometimes hard water (mineral stains left behind by water that has metal in it)

Regardless of why your stainless steel is discolored, the easiest way to get rid of it is to use a weak acid such as oxalic acid.  Oxalic acid is a natural acid found in nature (e.g., you can find oxalates in spinach and potatoes), but that doesn’t mean you should eat a lot of it. Thoroughly rinse out any cookware you wash, regardless of whatever cleaning agent you use.

  • Oxalic acid is commonly sold in canisters of Bar Keepers Friend Powder, which is affordable, doesn’t take much space, and never expires. Just add it to the pan, add a little water to make a paste, and scrub lightly, letting the chemical do most of the work.
  • There is also Bar Keepers Friend Cookware which now come in silver-colored canisters. This is better for cookware because it’s less abrasive, according to the manufacturer. I’ve used both, and the difference is subtle. But since the Cookware version costs about the same as regular BKF, I’ve switched to the Cookware version.
  • Also, you could also buy pre-made Bar Keepers Friend paste, but that’s less economic if you don’t mind adding your own water.
  • You could also use citric acid, such as lemon slices, but those tend to cost more and not keep as well as canisters of BKF. Similarly, you could use white vinegar, but it’s usually sold in bulky jugs at 5% acetic acid concentration that take up a lot of space.
Burned-On Oatmeal
Burned-On Oatmeal (Exterior)
Burned-On Oatmeal
Burned-On Oatmeal (Interior)
After 2 Rounds of BKF and Scrubbing
After a Round of BKF and Scrubbing
After 3 Rounds of BKF and Scrubbing
After 2 Rounds of BKF and Scrubbing
BKF Paste On Exterior Burn Spots
BKF Paste On Exterior Burn Spots

In my experience, a large canister of BKF lasts for several months and never expires. I like to use concentrated BKF, so I add only a small amount of water to a pan (just enough to cover the surface), mix in some BKF, let the chemical do its thing for a minute, and then scrub with a Scotch-Brite Non-scratch Scrub Sponge. Starch residues from beans/pasta/etc. will succumb to a BKF-enhanced scrubbing.  So will black, burned-on gunk, though it will take a while (let the BKF sit for a minute–let the acid do some of the work). If you don’t want to press down at all while scrubbing, perhaps due to arthritis, I can personally recommend the OXO Good Grips Soap Dispensing Palm Brush (brushes are refillable) which we use in our household because it’s easy to hold, and you can dispense dish detergent by squeezing it via the top button (which is well-designed and hard to accidentally squeeze).

Whatever acid you choose to use, don’t use a strong acid like sulfuric acid or undiluted hydrochloric acid, as those can corrode and etch stainless steel.

FOOTNOTES

Show 1 footnote

  1. http://articles.baltimoresun.com/2006-03-29/news/0603280034_1_stainless-steel-all-clad-cookware-oxalic“(All-Clad scientist) Groll said your “rainbow” stains are actually very thin layers of caramelized oil. Like a glass prism, the oil refracts light at different angles, causing a rainbow effect. The cloudy stains, he guessed, are probably protein residue.” Erica Marcus, for Newsday, reprinted by Baltimore Sun, March 29, 2006. ↩
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