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CenturyLife.Org

Cookware Material: Carbon Steel

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good once seasoned, it is less sticky and very much like seasoned cast iron)
Conductive layer: 2/5 Poor
External surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good if seasoned on the outside as well as the inside of the pan, to make it more rust-resistant)
Example: Lodge
Health safety: 4/5 Good (assuming no ill effects from seasoning)

—–

DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Carbon Steel Skillet
Carbon Steel Skillet

Carbon steel is a durable, tough metal that can take on seasoning, similar to cast iron. The definition of “carbon steel” can vary depending on the manufacturer, but in general the steel is a non-stainless steel, around 99% pure iron and thus very similar to cast iron. Carbon steel is naturally magnetic and thus works on induction.

What’s the difference between carbon steel and cast iron in terms of cookware, then? Simple: you can’t make cast iron too thin or else it will warp (become un-flat) or fracture when exposed to high heat. Plus pouring molten iron into casts necessitates a certain minimum thickness. So if you want a thin cast iron pan, what you do instead is to use carbon steel, which is less brittle and can be worked into sheets and punched out and formed into thinner pans. These pans are more durable than cast iron of equivalent thickness. (Note that thin carbon steel in the 2 mm range can still warp when exposed to large temperature changes quickly, such as putting a hot pan under cold water.) Carbon steel may also be easier to season and de-season than cast iron, depending on the brand and how polished the carbon steel is.

Please note that you may encounter thin, lightweight, enamel-coated carbon steel pots and pans from time to time at places like Wal-Mart. These pieces of cookware do not heat evenly on the bottom because they are so thin. And when the enamel inevitably chips off, the underlying carbon steel rusts just like cast iron does. Nevertheless, these pieces are cheap and induction-compatible and can do a decent job in the oven (where heat is far more even than on the stovetop) or of boiling water or other such tasks where something like water spreads the heat around the pot to make it more even.

Also note that thin carbon steel is a wildly popular choice for woks. This is because thin carbon steel heat unevenly, and this is accentuated by the wok’s bowl-like shape. The center-bottom of the wok gets much hotter than the rest of the pot, so you can stir-fry part of the food, move it over to the side, and stir-fry another part of the food. Continually tossing food does the same thing by rotating portions of the meal through the hot central bottom area of the wok. Cast iron woks also exist, but they are usually not as thin and strong and thus are heavier and less well-suited for the stir-fry tossing motion. A few manufacturers have made aluminum or other such woks, but the more even heating of aluminum partially defeats the purpose of stir-frying in the first place.

Use and care of carbon steel is virtually identical to that of cast iron. Given a choice between the two, I’d rather have the cast iron because both are such bad heat conductors that you need all the thickness you can get, and cast iron is usually made thicker.

Back to A No-Nonsense Guide to Cookware Materials.

Cookware Material: Cast Iron

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (3/5 Good once seasoned, it is less sticky as the surface becomes like hard plastic; but still struggles with acidic foods so it’s not for all-purpose cooking)
Conductive layer: 2/5 Poor
External surface: 1/5 Very Poor (3/5 Good if seasoned on the outside as well as the inside of the pan, to make it more rust-resistant)
Example: Lodge, Staub/Le Creuset (for enameled cast iron)
Health safety: 4/5 Good (assuming no ill effects from seasoning)

—–

DESCRIPTION

First, the pros: cast iron is cheap and can develop a semi-nonstick surface (“seasoning“) and can be heated to very high temperatures safely, and going from stove to oven (or vice versa) is one way to work around cast iron’s relatively poor thermal conductivity. Cast iron is usually made 3mm+ thick so it will have excellent heat retention and not drop in temperature too much even if you throw a cold steak on it, but note that the same can be said of things such as stainless steel with thick aluminum disc bases, which do not cost much more than cast iron. Thick cladded designs like Demeyere’s Proline skillets (4.8mm thick, 3.7mm of which is aluminum) also have great heat retention. Pound for pound, aluminum has nearly double the heat capacity of cast iron and can recover from losing heat much faster and more evenly. [Read more…]

Cookware Material: Seasoning

Nonstick pan popularity has waned as people have become aware of potential health risks from using nonstick materials at high heat. One alternative to nonstick pans is to use cast iron pans and to “season” them with cooking oil. At high enough temperatures, cooking oils will polymerize, and with enough layers of such polymers you wind up with a thin film of plastic-like, somewhat nonstick material. Over years of use, cast iron will accumulate more and more layers of polymerized oils on the cast iron’s cooking surface. The more layers, the less iron-leaching and the more nonstick the cast iron will become. Even the best-seasoned cast iron is not truly nonstick, but it’s good enough for many people–even for notoriously sticky foods like eggs and fish. [Read more…]

Cookware Material: Aluminum (Aluminium)

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Very Good if anodized)
Conductive layer: 4/5 Good (5/5 Excellent if over 3.5 mm thick or with thick conductive disc base)
External surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Very Good if anodized)
Example: Anolon Nouvelle Copper Nonstick
Health safety: 4/5 Good (5/5 Excellent if anodized)

—–

DESCRIPTION

Compared to other metals, aluminum (also known as aluminium1) is highly thermally conductive (pound for pound, aluminum delivers the highest thermal conductivity of all cookware materials), cheap, and low-density, but not particularly hard or strong. Heat treatment and other techniques can strengthen and harden aluminum, but such techniques can also make machining and forming pots and pans harder as well. [Read more…]

Show 1 footnote

  1. As a side note, both aluminum and aluminium are correct spellings. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) accepts both. Both derive from “alum,” the salt that contains aluminum, which in turn was derived from French, which was in turn derived from the Latin name for alum, “alumen.” British chemist Sir Humphry Davy named the anticipated-but-yet-to-be-discovered element several times, including “alumium,” “aluminum,” and “aluminium,” changing his mind several times between 1807-1812 before settling on “aluminium” to make it sound consistent with other elements he had previously named, like sodium. However, other metals like platinum predated aluminum and did not have the “i” before the “um,” and “um” is arguably more grammatically correct since alumina is the oxide, not “aluminia.” ↩

Thermal Properties of Metals

WHY DO WE WANT EVEN HEATING AND WHAT CAN WE DO ABOUT IT?

The job of the stovetop cookware is to smooth out the uneven heat coming from the burner underneath so that the cooking surface of the cookware is the same temperature. If you have too much of an imbalance in temperatures, you wind up with hot spots that can undermine your dish and your health by leaving some food overcooked (or even charred and carcinogenic) and some food undercooked. For instance, if you put a poor thermal conductor on a burner, the heat from the burner will keep accumulating near the areas where the flames touch the cookware because the cookware can’t spread the heat across the entire pan’s base fast enough.

HEAT TRANSFER

There are three ways to move heat from one place to another: convection, radiation, and conduction. [Read more…]

Cookware Material: Stainless Steel (Inox)

Cooking surface: 4/5 Good
Conductive layer: 1/5 Very Poor
External surface: 5/5 Excellent
Examples: Exterior and interior of All-Clad Stainless, Demeyere
Health safety: 5/5 Excellent
—–

DESCRIPTION

Salt crystals have left "pits" on the cooking surface of this pan. The chemical reaction between the salt and stainless steel has eaten away some of the steel. This is permanent damage.
Salt crystals have left “pits” on the cooking surface of this pan. The chemical reaction between the salt and stainless steel has eaten away some of the steel. This is permanent damage.

Stainless steel is also known as “stainless.” Since a lot of cookware is manufactured in French-speaking countries, you may see the terms “acier inoxydable” or “inoxydable” or “inox” which mean all mean “stainless steel.”

So what is stainless steel?

The short story: stainless steel is a corrosion-resistant type of steel. It’s much harder and has a much higher melting point than aluminum and copper, making it the most durable of all common cookware materials. (Porcelain/ceramic/glass and anodized aluminum are harder than stainless steel, but they are also brittle, making them more likely to break if dropped or bashed against the side of a sink or other hard surface.)

However, stainless steel is not 100% corrosion-resistant. Even the most corrosion resistant grades of stainless steel will eventually pit/stain/rust if exposed to salt water or acid for long enough periods of time. Thus you should never store acidic foods (e.g. tomato sauce) in stainless steel pots overnight. Also do not use undissolved salt as that is highly corrosive, and even the best grades of stainless steel can’t resist that abuse indefinitely. For instance, when making pasta, bring water to a rolling boil first before adding salt. The agitated water will prevent salt from sinking to the bottom of the pot before it has a chance to dissolve. Stainless steel cookware can last a lifetime–with proper care.

If you’re shopping for stainless steel kitchenware, the hierarchy goes something like this:

[Read more…]

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