Cooking surface: 2/5 to 4/5 (Poor to Good depending on the exact formulation; numerous reports of stickiness even for allegedly nonstick ceramics; on the other hand, enamel/glass/ceramics are mostly non-reactive with food)
Conductive layer: 1/5 Very Poor (enamel/glass/ceramic is a terrible heat conductor by itself)
External surface: 3/5 Fair (chipping is common, but careful usage and buying only thick, high-quality EGC can go a long way)
Examples: Fontignac, Le Creuset, Lodge, Staub, Pyrex, Corning Visions
Health safety: 5/5 Excellent (non-reactive)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Glass is non-crystalline material like Pyrex, made from sand/stone/soil. Glass is hard, brittle, and impermeable.

Enamel is powdered, melted glass used to coat something else, such as enamel coating over cast iron.

Ceramic is a general term which encompasses stoneware, porcelain, and earthenware. Ceramics are hard, brittle, and impermeable like glass. Stoneware and porcelain are examples of clays fired to high temperatures.

Stoneware is fired clay and is opaque and more or less nonporous and nonabsorbent (2-5 percent absorption). Like glass, it is hard, brittle, and impermeable, so water and air can’t fully penetrate.

Porcelain is a special type of high-grade stoneware that uses kaolin clay. Porcelain is more durable than other stoneware and is nonporous, translucent, and especially nonabsorbent (0-1 percent).

Earthenware is not fired as high as stoneware. Earthenware is not impermeable, so liquids can get through eventually. It should not be used as general-purpose cookware. We won’t be considering it further. [Read more…]

Cooking surface: 1/5 Very Poor (large amounts of copper is toxic to ingest)
Conductive layer: 5/5 Excellent (the best affordable thermal conductor)
External surface: 3/5 Good (softer than stainless but still harder than aluminum; oxidizes rapidly)
Examples: Mauviel, Matfer Bourgeat
Health safety: 1/5 Very Poor (toxic in high doses, which is why it’s usually lined with another material on the cooking surface)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Many people enjoy copper cookware’s shiny, lustrous, pink-orange looks. Copper cookware has historically been the pinnacle of affordable (read: non-silver) cookware, used by such famous cooks as Julia Child. But copper, also known as “cuivre” in French, is more than just a pretty face; it’s practical for cooking as well. Among all metals at room and cooking temperatures, copper is the second-best heat conductor, barely edged out by silver which is less than 10% more conductive (the exact percentage depends on metal purity). Copper is more thermally conductive than gold as well, not that many people would be foolish enough to make cookware out of gold.¹ Indeed, 1 mm of copper thickness is worth ~2.3 mm of aluminum alloy thickness in terms of heat-spreading power, at least in theory. (In practice the ratio is more like 2:1.) [Read more…]

For electric coil/induction/radiant/halogen rankings, please see Even Heating Rankings (Induction and Electric). For more details on testing methodology, see here.

EVERY COMPANY CLAIMS THAT THEIR COOKWARE IS EVEN-HEATING, BUT IS THAT TRUE?

The job of stovetop cookware is a) to smooth out the uneven heat coming from the burner underneath so that the entire cooking surface of the cookware is the same temperature; and b) to keep your food in the Maillard reaction temperature zone–not too hot and not too cold. If you have too much of an imbalance in temperatures, you wind up with hot or cold spots that can undermine your dish by leaving some food overcooked and some food undercooked. You may even scorch carcinogens into your food or produce carcinogenic smoke, if some hotspots grow hotter than the oil’s smoke point while you are waiting for non-hotspots to catch up in temperature. (Hotspotting is particularly troublesome on nonstick pans because you can overheat the hotspots when trying to bring up the temperature of the colder spots, and overheating PTFE/Teflon will permanently damage it and cause offgas.) If you’ve ever cooked fish where part of a fillet got overcooked while the rest was undercooked or made rice and had some undercooked while the rest burned, then you’ve already experienced the joy of uneven heating.

The larger the diameter of your cookware bottom relative to the diameter of the flame or heating element or induction coil, the bigger the uneven heating problem can be, since heat has to travel a longer distance to reach the sides.¹

[Read more…]

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (fragile, low melting point)
Conductive layer: N/A (tin is never the main heat conductive layer)
External surface: N/A Poor (tin is too soft for exterior use)
Example: Mauviel
Health safety: 4/5 Good (tin is mostly but not totally non-reactive)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Tin is an extremely soft metal that you can scratch with your fingernail.¹ Tin transitions from shiny “beta” tetragonal tin to rhombic tin between 161C and 202.8C (321.8F and 397.04F).² It’s still tin, just in a different crystal arrangement and slightly less shiny. Tin melts at 231.9C (449.42F).³

Tin is used in copper cookware as a lining because tin resists corrosion, is nontoxic, and is relatively non-reactive compared to bare copper. Ingesting large amounts of copper can lead to negative health consequences, so always have your tin-lined copper re-lined once you see large bare areas of copper peeking through.⁴

IS TIN TOXIC?

Tin is not toxic in small amounts, especially elemental tin, hence the proverbial “tin can” for food.⁵ Unless you plan to gnaw on your tin-lined cookware, it should not be a problem to absorb a milligram here or there from tin.

TIN-LINED COPPER VS STAINLESS-LINED COPPER

Frankly I would avoid both since copper cookware tends to sell for small fortunes, and you can get thick aluminum for much cheaper and at a lower weight and still get very good thermal conductivity.

But if you must have copper than stainless-lined is the way to go for most people. Here’s why:

[Read more…]

Cooking surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good once seasoned, it is less sticky and very much like seasoned cast iron)
Conductive layer: 2/5 Poor
External surface: 2/5 Poor (4/5 Good if seasoned on the outside as well as the inside of the pan, to make it more rust-resistant)
Example: Lodge
Health safety: 4/5 Good (assuming no ill effects from seasoning)

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DESCRIPTION AND COMPOSITION

Carbon steel is a durable, tough metal that can take on seasoning, similar to cast iron. The definition of “carbon steel” can vary depending on the manufacturer, but in general the steel is a non-stainless steel, around 99% pure iron and thus very similar to cast iron. Carbon steel is naturally magnetic and thus works on induction.

What’s the difference between carbon steel and cast iron in terms of cookware, then? Simple: you can’t make cast iron too thin or else it will warp (become un-flat) or fracture when exposed to high heat. Plus pouring molten iron into casts necessitates a certain minimum thickness. So if you want a thin cast iron pan, what you do instead is to use carbon steel, which is less brittle and can be worked into sheets and punched out and formed into thinner pans. These pans are more durable than cast iron of equivalent thickness. (Note that thin carbon steel in the 2 mm range can still warp when exposed to large temperature changes quickly, such as putting a hot pan under cold water.) Carbon steel may also be easier to season and de-season than cast iron, depending on the brand and how polished the carbon steel is.

Please note that you may encounter thin, lightweight, enamel-coated carbon steel pots and pans from time to time at places like Wal-Mart. These pieces of cookware do not heat evenly on the bottom because they are so thin. And when the enamel inevitably chips off, the underlying carbon steel rusts just like cast iron does. Nevertheless, these pieces are cheap and induction-compatible and can do a decent job in the oven (where heat is far more even than on the stovetop) or of boiling water or other such tasks where something like water spreads the heat around the pot to make it more even.

Also note that thin carbon steel is a wildly popular choice for woks. This is because thin carbon steel heat unevenly, and this is accentuated by the wok’s bowl-like shape. The center-bottom of the wok gets much hotter than the rest of the pot, so you can stir-fry part of the food, move it over to the side, and stir-fry another part of the food. Continually tossing food does the same thing by rotating portions of the meal through the hot central bottom area of the wok. Cast iron woks also exist, but they are usually not as thin and strong and thus are heavier and less well-suited for the stir-fry tossing motion. A few manufacturers have made aluminum or other such woks, but the more even heating of aluminum partially defeats the purpose of stir-frying in the first place.

Use and care of carbon steel is virtually identical to that of cast iron. Given a choice between the two, I’d rather have the cast iron because both are such bad heat conductors that you need all the thickness you can get, and cast iron is usually made thicker.

Back to A No-Nonsense Guide to Cookware Materials.