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How to choose an enameled Dutch oven: Is Le Creuset worth it? Le Creuset vs Staub: is Staub worth it? Why does Le Creuset cost so much? What are my alternatives?

Top: All-Clad Stainless. Bottom: Lodge Logic Cast Iron 12-inch (SK10) skillet. The left images are after 4 minutes of medium heat on an 1800-watt induction cooktop; the right images after 5 minutes. (Ignore the reflections, which make the sidewalls of the All-Clad look hotter than they really are.) The All-Clad's aluminum layer is only about half the thickness of the ~5 mm thick cast iron, yet the All-Clad is beating the cast iron in even heating AND speed. Cast iron won't win many even heating contests on the stovetop unless first pre-heated in an oven. Ovens heat from all directions equally, so ALL cookware is even heating in an oven.
Top: All-Clad Stainless. Bottom: Lodge Logic Cast Iron 12-inch (SK10) skillet. The left images are after 4 minutes of medium heat on an 1800-watt induction cooktop; the right images after 5 minutes. (Ignore the reflections, which make the sidewalls of the All-Clad look hotter than they really are.) The All-Clad’s aluminum layer is only about half the thickness of the ~5 mm thick cast iron, yet the All-Clad is beating the cast iron in even heating AND speed. For instance the center vs. edge temperature difference after 4 minutes is 157.5F for the All-Clad and 211.2F for the Lodge.

Le Creuset (pronounced by French as “luh cruh-zay” and Americans as “leh crew-ZAY”; just don’t call it “leh kressit”) is a French company dating back to 1925, when Armand Desaegher, a caster, and Octave Aubecq, an enameler, joined forces and coated cast iron with porcelain enamel. It was a success and the rest is history.

Le Creuset’s claim to fame is their enameled cast iron cookware, especially their Dutch ovens–or French ovens, as they like to call them. So for purposes of this article, I am talking about just enameled cast iron cookware–mostly Dutch ovens, but some topics are applicable to enameled cast iron skillets as well.

“Le Creuset” means “the cauldron” in French, and Le Creuset insists on calling its most famous products “French” ovens. Yet many people call them Dutch ovens, because the Dutch were famous for making high-quality, thick-walled, cast-metal pots in the 1600s, so the term “Dutch oven” stuck regardless of who actually made the pot. It will probably continue to stick despite Le Creuset’s best efforts. But a “Dutch oven” by any other name would cook just as sweetly.

Q: What’s a Dutch oven (also known as a French oven or cocotte, pronounced “ko-KOT”)?

A: A Dutch oven is any thick-walled cooking vessel with a lid. There is no requirement that a Dutch oven be made of cast iron. Dutch ovens can be made from aluminum, copper, and multi-layered materials (e.g., stainless steel bonded with aluminum and/or copper). Ideally, the sidewalls of the Dutch oven should be heat-conductive and the lid should be tight-fitting and heavy enough that you don’t get too much evaporation during cooking.

Q: Why does Le Creuset cost so much?

A: The short answer is that it’s a) made in France using higher-cost labor than you can find in China; b) Le Creuset likely has higher marketing costs that many rivals; c) Le Creuset likely has higher quality control and sourcing standards and enamel quality than many rivals; d) Le Creuset honors its warranties, unlike some companies that pretend that product defects are the result of user abuse; and most importantly e) product prices are determined by what people are willing to pay, not how much it costs to produce a product. Cast iron is a relatively inexpensive material, and despite reasons a) through d) above, I suspect Le Creuset makes very healthy profit on its French ovens anyway.

That said, here’s a word of caution: only buy from companies that manufacture their own products and from well-established cookware product lines if you can help it. Many companies–even big-name companies–merely import product from Chinese factories for resale, and often don’t spend enough resources to verify quality after the first batch. It takes money and expertise to continuously ensure that products lie flat, do not contain harmful or radioactive chemical contaminants, are polished properly, and so on. If a company doesn’t operate its own factories in China, it could end up like Lumber Liquidators, which sold floorboards with excessive formaldehyde that leaked into the air of the homes it was installed in, which increased consumer cancer risks among other things. Lumber Liquidators told its Chinese partner that it wanted in-spec product, but received out-of-spec product anyway, and nobody caught the discrepancy until end-users started getting unexplained symptoms like headaches and nausea. There are many more examples of Chinese and Indian exports containing toxic or radioactive chemicals, and even more examples of Chinese cookware falling apart, such as handles breaking off while in use, frying pans exploding or popping rivets off, enamel coatings cracking and flying off, ceramic roasters shattering, lids breaking, etc. In contrast, chemical contamination and structural failure are almost unheard of with cookware made in the USA/EU, such as All-Clad and Le Creuset.

Q: Is Le Creuset worth it? That is, is worth the price?

[Read more…]

What is the difference between 3-ply (tri-ply) and 5-ply and 7-ply? How many plies do I need??

You occasionally see breathless marketing material about how their fancy cookware has heat-conductive walls that have more than three plies.

Q: What’s a ply?

A: A ply is just another name for “layer.”

Q: How thick does a layer have to be, in order to be counted as a “ply”?

A: It depends on whose marketing department is answering…

[Read more…]

A No-Nonsense Guide to Cookware Materials

THE SHORT ANSWER

For each common cookware material below, I’ll summarize their strengths, weaknesses, and offer a quick summary.

Material Strengths Weaknesses Summary
Aluminum Cheap, Best heat spreading power per pound (a thick aluminum layer can spread heat quite evenly) Easily bends and scratches, chemically reactive, not dishwasher or induction compatible Cookware makers usually coat aluminum with PTFE (such as Teflon) or stainless steel because bare aluminum is chemically reactive and can give metallic off-tastes to food, particularly acidic foods like tomatoes and citrus. Stainless also makes it dishwasher/induction compatible and more resistant to bending. Anodized aluminum is a thin layer of hard aluminum “rust” that can chip/flake off over time and does not provide the structural support or dishwasher/induction compatibility that stainless provides. But anodization that hasn’t chipped off yet makes it relatively chemically inert and resistant to scratches.
Carbon Steel Thinner, lighter, more expensive alternative to cast iron Uneven heating, chemically reactive, rusts, stays hot and takes more care (keep away from small children and pets) Basically a thinner, lighter version of cast iron with similar drawbacks like weight, chemical reactivity, and sensitivity to rust. New carbon steel pans are usually smoother than new cast iron pans, so carbon steel requires less seasoning to make semi-nonstick.
Cast Iron Most cast iron is produced thick (3.5 mm or more) and thus holds a lot of heat. Thus cast iron is slow to heat up and slow to cool down. Can be seasoned to create a semi-nonstick surface. Uneven heating, chemically reactive, rusts, stays hot and takes more care (keep away from small children and pets) Cast iron rusts if not cleaned and stored and seasoned properly. Seasoning means burning oil onto the pan to produce a semi-nonstick, plasticky film that also prevents the iron from rusting. Modern cast iron is bumpy and requires lots of seasoning to make it semi-nonstick. Although the seasoning produces far less pollution than manufacturing PTFEs like Teflon, there aren’t lots of studies on the long-term effects of ingesting small amounts of seasoning each meal, though presumably your body’s natural defenses can handle it. Cast iron is chemically reactive (even through layers of seasoning) and can create metallic off-tastes/off-colors, so avoid cooking acidic foods like tomatoes in bare cast iron. Enamel-coated cast iron gets around the reactivity problem, but enamel can chip off and often costs more.
Copper The best common cookware material in terms of spreading heat quickly and evenly. Expensive and heavy. Higher upkeep than stainless, not dishwasher or induction compatible. Bare copper is chemically reactive and creates toxic compounds, so copper cookware must be lined with something nontoxic like tin or steel. Millimeter for millimeter, copper delivers the fastest and most even heat spreading power of all common cookware materials (silver is slightly better but is softer and cost-prohibitive). Copper is also heavy and stores almost as much heat per millimeter as cast iron. Bare copper changes color when exposed to heat and eventually turns into a dull, matte brownish-black if not polished. Copper is harder than aluminum and not as easily bonded to stainless, so “clad” copper designs (copper coated with stainless steel) usually have very thin layers of copper, to the point where you’re probably better off with thicker aluminum pans coated with stainless, instead. (NOTE: Copper is toxic when ingested in large quantities which is why it is usually layered with tin or stainless steel to prevent its direct contact with fod. But for certain applications like whisking eggs or jam, bare copper is okay. Where one runs into bigger problems is cooking anything acidic in bare copper.)
Glass Transparent, chemically nonreactive TERRIBLE thermal conductivity, fragile. Avoid cookware made purely out of glass/enamel/ceramic for the stovetop. An oven with gentle, even air heating is fine, but stoves deliver highly concentrated heat which will lead to hotspots if the material can’t spread the heat around fast enough. If the cookware has a layer of heat-conductive material like cast iron, carbon steel, aluminum, or copper, and is merely coated with glass/enamel/ceramic, that’s fine.
Stainless Steel Resists dents and bending, chemically less reactive Very bad thermal conductivity Stainless steel resists bending and dents and has no possibility of chipping/fracturing like enamel/glass/ceramic if you accidentally bang it into the side of the sink or drop it. Stainless is also relatively chemically nonreactive, unlike carbon steel or cast iron or copper or aluminum. However, stainless by itself is a poor thermal conductor, so you almost always want to buy stainless steel bonded with a better heat conductor like aluminum or copper; the heat conductor does the job of spreading heat around evenly, and the stainless steel provides a chemically less-reactive cooking surface.
Tin Used as a relatively inexpensive cooking surface on copper Fragile, low melting point, re-tinning gets expensive Copper’s toxicity is usually addressed in one of two ways: bonding stainless steel as a nonreactive cooking surface (expensive but long-lasting), or coating the copper with tin (inexpensive up front but costly long-term to hire someone to re-tin the cookware; for instance, it costs about $100 including shipping and insurance to re-tin a 28cm-diameter frying pan, though some people live close to re-tinners and don’t have to pay shipping/insurance). Tin is a little less sticky than stainless but is very soft. Even if you don’t use metal utensils or nylon scrubbies on tin, and even if you take great care to avoid cooking anything with bones in it (since meat/fish bones can scratch tin), tin wears away eventually and must be re-applied. Lastly, tin melts at about 450F (230C), and it takes only one accident to melt off enough tin to render a pan unusable. Tin is only for households where everybody has a perfect or near-perfect record of never overheating pans.
PTFE (Teflon) Relatively inexpensive, easy to clean Wears off with use, breaks down when overheated, creates pollution, and emits trace amounts of PFOA into your body PTFE like Teflon is chemically inert (will not react to food, so it’s a popular coating for aluminum, which is very chemically reactive). PTFE is very slippery and easy to clean. However, PTFE is fragile and will eventually wear off with use, especially if you use metal utensils or stiffer nylon scrubbies on it. PTFE begins to break down and emit potentially toxic gases at about 400F depending on exact formulation, with the breakdown accelerating as temperatures increase. Bonding PTFE to cookware emits PFOA pollution which is toxic and takes decades to break down in the environment. There is almost no PFOA left in the cookware, but if you do cook on PTFE nonstick pans, you may eventually ingest very small amounts of PFOA. The amounts are small enough by themselves to not pose a health risk according to US government standards, but PFOA stays in your body for a very long time.

Back to How to Choose Cookware.

THE LONG ANSWER

If you want to know more about the common cookware materials, please see their respective information pages below:

  • Aluminum
  • Carbon Steel
  • Cast Iron
  • Copper (Cuivre)
  • Enamel/Glass/Ceramic
  • Silver
  • Stainless Steel (Inox)
  • Tin
  • PTFE (e.g., Teflon)

If that’s not enough for you, then also see Thermal Properties of Metals.  You may also want to see the electric and gas even heating rankings.

Back to How to Choose Cookware.

Cladded sidewalls vs. disc-bottomed cookware: which is better?

Cladded cookware, uniform thickness throughout (All-Clad style)
Cladded cookware, uniform thickness throughout (All-Clad style)

You’ve probably heard it before: cladded is better than disc-bottomed. But is it cladded cookware worth it?

The Short Answer:

Generally speaking, sufficiently thick clad is more versatile than disc-base cookware. However, thick cladded cookware tends to cost more than disc-base cookware, so if you are on a budget and need to prioritize, this is the order of prioritization:

Your skillets/frying pans, saucieres, and woks should be cladded or else have sidewalls made from copper, aluminum, cast iron, or carbon steel.

Saute pans benefit somewhat from cladding but it’s less necessary than for skillets/saucieres/woks. Nevertheless, if you cook on gas, I would recommend getting a cladded saute pan to avoid the “ring of fire” effect (see below), or else a pan that has an oversized disc base to prevent the ring of fire (the cheapest being the Cuisinart Professional Series Stainless).

Saucepans and stockpots used to boil water or other thin liquids are a tough call.  You could go either way. I would say with induction stoves, which heat very unevenly, go with a thick disc-base construction because you will need every millimeter of aluminum or copper on the bottom that you can get.  Gas and electric coil are more even-heating, so if you get a decently-thick cladded piece, it should do fine.  Cladding may also help with extremely thick stews, in theory, because thick fluids do a poorer job of transporting heat than thin fluids like water–but in practice, you probably want to help things along by stirring, anyway.

Avoid thin cladded cookware, because such thin cookware lacks heat distribution ability so that you may get hot spots on the bottom. For reference, All-Clad Stainless is about 2.6 mm thick–roughly 1.75 mm of which is aluminum (rough estimate). Many cheap All-Clad knockoffs made in China are 2.5 mm thick (1.5 mm aluminum) or even thinner. Some of the biggest names have some of the shoddiest tri-ply cladded designs, such as Calphalon Tri-Ply Stainless, and Paderno Tri-Ply, which are all around 2.2 mm in total thickness and thus probably have ~1.25 mm of aluminum.

The Long Answer: [Read more…]

Meyer Corporation

If you are interested in cookware, you should know the names of the two largest cookware companies in the world: Groupe SEB (France) and Meyer Corporation (Hong Kong).

There are already very comprehensive articles about Meyer Corporation out there, such as this article at SFGate.com.

Highlights:

– In the 1960s, an aluminum factory owner in Hong Kong sent his son, Stanley K. Cheng, to the U.S. for college. Cheng returned home and converted the family’s aluminum production from cheap things like ashtrays and flashlights into cookware by the early 1970s. This aluminum business would become Meyer Corporation. [Read more…]

Product Review Rating Methodology for Cookware

Ann and I are real people, cooking real food, in real consumer kitchens (ours, and those of friends and family). In contrast, supposedly “professional” reviews are often flawed and follow a herd mentality. For instance, Cooks Illustrated/America’s Test Kitchen’s methodology is flawed in many ways:

  • Their testing is unrealistic–most home chefs don’t have access to big, professional gas stoves, which benefit clad designs more than disc-base designs. (Clad pans often aren’t as even heating as disc-base, but the difference lessens on big gas burners.)
  • They often don’t seem to care about factors like handle comfort or ease of cleanliness–yet home chefs care about such things.
  • They tend to select a handful of weak competitors to challenge the cookware they anoint as “best.”
  • Their reviews are inconsistent; what matters in one review doesn’t seem to matter in another.
  • CI has a history of shoddy reviews. E.g., they promoted the cheap OXO can opener but that model falls apart quickly. Ditto when they promoted the old KitchenAid blender (cracked jars), Zyliss garlic press (nonstick coating peels off after a while), T-Fal (crowns in the middle despite CI’s claiming its longevity), etc.  CI’s recipe guides are good, but their product reviews need improvement.

Celebrity TV chefs don’t cook realistically, either. They often get free stuff as part of their sponsorship deals with kitchenware companies. They often cook on pro-grade gas stoves as well–not realistic for most home chefs. And they don’t really comment on handling, heating performance, value, corrosion resistance, or ease of cleaning.  After all, some poor intern is the one doing the dishes.

Then there are typical, low-quality internet review sites, most of which don’t do their own homework; they just crib notes from others or copy and paste from manufacturer brochures.  Some sites even take free or discounted samples from manufacturers and then claim that they are unbiased.  Yeah right.

And don’t get us started on the biased reviews that plague the internet where companies send samples to reviewers who are pressured into giving high ratings or else the flow of free stuff ends.  (But at least those biased reviewers might have actually used the product at all. My advice would be to disregard any online “review” site that only has stock photos. A genuine reviewer would have shots of the product in action, like I do.)

This site is not like others.

We actually use stuff like a home user would, with photos to prove it. We do NOT take any free samples or any other incentives. We pay for everything ourselves. We’re cooking enthusiasts, not paid shills for some megacorporation.  This site is a labor of love, and we cook like home chefs actually cook: on residential-grade electric coil, induction, and gas stoves.  We talk about pros and cons.  And we use testing equipment properly.  Many readers have written in to say that they love the unique, detailed reviews on this site, so we’ve continued to review products.

This site did not start off as a cookware review site (which for better or worse is the most popular part of this site right now), but we happened to have a LOT of different cookware because of our obsession with even heating and avoiding creating carcinogenic chemicals due to overheating.  That might sound extreme, but when your spouse develops colon cancer in their 30s and the blood tests show that the cancer was not caused by genes, it makes you worried about environmental carcinogens.

Okay, off the soapbox now. Let’s get to how we rate kitchenware products:

Ratings are inherently subjective, except for even heating. Nevertheless, you can use these subjective rankings as a rough guideline. 5 = Excellent, 1 = Very Poor.

Overall ratings are derived from various factors and subfactors:

[Read more…]

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